CLEANSER 101

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Today we're talking all things cleanser! This is a spiritual successor to my Moisturiser 101 post where I broke down how one of the most fundamental skincare products out there actually works, the different options on the market and how to choose the right one for you. Now it's the turn of cleansers...

This sounds kind of strange and obvious, but if you've ever used a creamy, non-foaming cleanser, you might have found yourself wondering what makes it a cleanser and not just something moisturiser-adjacent. Well, a cleanser is a cleanser because it contains surfactants. Surfactants have a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a hydrophobic (water-repelling) tail and they group together to surround and bind to oils and impurities so they're pulled off your skin and into the cleansing product which can then be washed away. If you've ever tried to cleanse your skin with something like pure coconut oil, you'll appreciate the difference surfactants make (if you use a pure oil, it's not really going to break down or emulsify with water and it's going to be very difficult to remove).

There are a number of different types of surfactants that will vary in terms of efficacy, texture and how they feel on the skin. Without getting too much into the science and adding unnecessary details, the main categories are: emulsifying surfactants, foaming surfactants and non-foaming surfactants.

This leads us to the types of cleansers available on the market. We have both cleansers that are purely functional and cleansers that are intended to deliver actives to the skin; for the sake of simplicity, we're going to focus on the former. My approximate summary of them, grouped by the type of surfactants they contain are:

Emulsifying Surfactant Cleansers

Balm cleanser (a solid or semi-solid butter that melts into an oil when massaged onto dry skin and transforms to a milk with water)

Oil cleanser (similar to a balm but liquid at room temperature and also transforms to a milk with water)

Jelly oil cleanser (looks like a jelly but is actually oil based so melts down when massaged onto dry skin and transforms to a milk with water)

Foaming Surfactant Cleansers

Foaming gel cleanser (usually a clear gel that foams with water)

Lathering rich cleanser (a creamy-feeling cleanser that creates a rich lather with water)

Non-Foaming Surfactant Cleansers

Creamy / lotion cleanser (moisturising, rich cleansers - these can be heavier like a cold cream or light like a lotion and they do not foam with water)

Jelly cleanser (similar to a gel cleanser but firmer in texture and of course they doesn't foam with water)

One consideration when it comes to choosing a cleanser is your skin type. I don't believe skin type is massively important when it comes to picking skincare (I tend to prefer to choose my products based on concern) but it's probably most relevant when it comes to deciding the type of moisturiser and cleanser texture you prefer. Typically dry skin types prefer creamier cleansers and oily skin types foaming gels. If you're sensitive, a non-foaming jelly cleanser can be a great option and normal or combination skin types can dabble in a number of textures. Likewise, I often change my cleanser with the seasons or how my skin is feeling in the moment; if it's winter or a little drier then I'm reaching for cream formula, if it's warmer and I want something lighter, then a non-foaming jelly is perfect. 

One of the other questions you need to ask is what you want the cleanser to 'do'. Although some cleansers can be multi-functional, they broadly fall into two categories 'first cleanses' which are those formulas with emulsifying surfactants that melt down makeup and sunscreen and the end of the day and 'second cleanses' which can also be used in the morning (though not everyone chooses to cleanse their face in the morning; some find water alone to be gentle and non-drying). The second cleanse is really what's more skin type specific because it's what you're going to be using immediately prior to continuing your skincare routine. Your first cleanse needs to do the job and not leave a load of residue on the skin, so a formula that's quick and easy to use within your routine and that's effective for you and whatever makeup or sunscreen you use is really key here. But ultimately, most people need two cleansers: one that's emulsifying to gently remove makeup or water-resistant sunscreen (if you use these products) and one that falls into one of the other categories that's more geared towards your skin type.

I hope this whistle-stop tour of cleansers, how they work and the options on the market was helpful! What cleanser(s) do you use?

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Read more posts from this series here!